Notes On A Luddite

A couple of years ago I joined Twitter. I didn’t really want to. Geeky peer-pressure and name-calling (and I think, alcohol) forced me into it. In honour of my then technological resistance I created an account called @curlyluddite, and like most noobies I tentatively uploaded a faceless image as my avatar, and locked up my tweets.  Eventually, I grew cheeky and confident enough to shed the shackles of my shrouded Twitter existence and share my meanderings with the rest of the world. Off came the security locks and up went a picture of my real-life face. And it’s been pretty good so far. I’ve made some lovely connections and learned some handy things as @curlyluddite. But to the tweep who (rather seriously) informed me that I am “not really a Luddite” because I “have a blog and am on Twitter”: you are correct. I’m not really a Luddite. But like a lot of ironic/pointless nicknames this one has stuck, and it led me to a pretty special wine recently, 2004 Luddite Shiraz.

2004 Luddite Shiraz

Luddite Wines is based in South Africa’s Western Cape and opened its doors in 1999 with its sights set on making top-notch Shiraz. Their Luddism philosophy stems from a focus on self-sufficient and global conscious farming. 2004 was the first vintage they used their own Walker Bay fruit (though blended with the grapes of 3 other vineyard sites,  Malmesbury, Helderburg and Bottelry). I spied this particular bottle in Bedales, a small wine shop/wine bar hybrid near Spitalfields Market in London, and like a child seeing her name in print I squealed with recognition and bought it. The bottle has sat in my cupboard for over a year awaiting a decent occasion. Mercifully, a half decent occasion presented itself the other night. Good enough. We popped the cork.

Deep burgundy colour with blackish hues and a little sediment. The nose was rich and complex with stewed plumb, leather, tobacco, cinnamon and pepper. Solid & full-bodied in the mouth with smooth tannins and  nicely integrated fruit, alcohol and spicy acidity. My sense was that the fruit could’ve been a little more prominent, but what existed hung together well with everything else so, no matter. An intense, bold, yet very together wine. Liked it a lot.

4 vineyard sites, Malmesbury, Helderburg, Bottelry and for the first time our own fruit from the Luddite farm in Bot River.

A Farewell Toast to the Furballs…

Jasper and Wiley

A year or so ago I met a friend for drinks a few days prior to her moving abroad. Planning to be away at least a year she was rather beside herself over the issue of her two cats. “If I can’t find them a home I’ll have to give them to a shelter…” she whimpered. My heart panged but my (then-sober) brain interjected: “Oh no you don’t”. I nodded to myself and listened to my friend sympathetically, promising to help spread the word. As the night wore on and more pints were consumed, heart strings gradually squelched logic and I pledged to take said cats off her hands (should no one else want them).

Needless to say, the cats, Jasper and Wiley, were mine a few days later. And for over a year they snoozed and  shed on nearly every surface of my flat, tore my window screens, picked my furniture and barfed on my floor. If I wasn’t buying wine for neighbours to feed them while I was away, I was running to the store in the wee hours to get them food, or flea treatments, or cat litter, or whatever else they needed. But… despite the financial and domestic inconveniences, I developed quite a soft spot for the little guys. Jasper, the alpha male, was sensitve and pensive but loved to cuddle. Wiley was more aloof but liked the occasional pat and had a curious fondness for hanging out in the shower. They killed the odd mouse for me, growled at strangers and were always glad to see me.

2004 Chateau Ksara

So, as you may have gathered from my wistful prose, Jasper and Wiley are no longer with me. My friend has since returned from her nomadic spree and took them back this weekend. I’d known the day was coming for some time, but I was not prepared for the emotional upheaval that came with stuffing their little bodies into the cat carrier and handing them over. OH, IT WAS HARD. The tears flowed and noses ran as my friend thrust a bottle of 04 Chateau Ksara into my fist as a thank-you.

I hereby raise a glass of Chateau Ksara to my furry friends, Jasper and Wiley:

May all your storms be weathered. (they detest disagreeable weather)
May all that’s good get better. (expensive tinned tuna water, not the cheap stuff)
Here’s to life.
Here’s to love.
Here’s to you.*

The Ksara, I should mention, was wonderful. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. I am pretty partial to Lebanese wine, and this is one of the better glasses I’ve had in a while. Notes:

	A deep burgundy colour with slight browning/bricking at the edges. Starting to show age.
	Intense ripe blackberry, black currant with liquorice, star anise, tobacco and cedar.
	Medium-to-full bodied. Smooth, velvety texture with a warm chutney-like spice, soft tannins, good acidity and perfectly integrated fruit. Very balanced.

*Here’s To Life by Shirley Horne

30% Carignan, 30% Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 California Wine Fair

2010 California Wine Fair

The Halifax Society for American Wines held their annual California Wine Fair last night at Canada’s Immigration Museum, Pier 21. Pier 21 is an austere, but beautiful building refurbished in 1999 to commemorate its past life as Canada’s port of entry to over a million immigrants from the late 1920′s to the early 70′s. It’s a large, open, airy space with spashes of colour, exposed brick and wide open views of the harbour. A remarkable history and a refreshing setting for a wine show.

2010 California Wine Fair, Pier 21

Clearly, there is no shortage of Cali wine lovers in Halifax. The show was very well attended with a good mix of professionals and enthusiasts of all ages. Over 250 wines were on show, most of which were either available for purchase in Nova Scotia already, or coming soon. Viognier & Chardonnay appeared to be the prevailing Whites, with Bordeaux blends topping the Reds. French-looking labels were the fashion as were French-sounding vineyard names a la Clos and Chateau. Big brands like Gallo and Mondavi were on hand, but so too were lots of interesting, lesser known players.

Mondavi Table

So, impressions of the wines overall? Officially, I cannot tell you as I did not try them all, but having made a decent dent there was, I felt, a lot of same-sameyness to most I tried. But not all. Here were some personal highlights:

Whites:

1. Birichino Malvasia Bianca, 2008, Monterey. Very muscat-like. An incredibly floral nose, with peach, melon and citrus. Surprisingly dry, slightly grassy, limey palate with crisp acidity. Really pleasant.
2. Sonoma Cutrer “The Cutrer”, 2005 Chardonnay. The marketing sheet says its vines were planted ‘on an ancient sea bed’… which might explain the calcium/briney like character I was getting on this wine. If they oaked this, I couldn’t smell or taste it. A very clean, crisp, mineral style of Chardonnay that made me think of Chablis.
   
3. Domaine Chandon Brut Classic. My favourite of the three. Made using méthode traditionnelle this is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Aromas of almond, spice and biscuit. Fine bubbles, apples and pear on the palate, finishes dry.

Kenwood Artist Series, Cab Sauv

Reds:

1. Ferrari-Carano Merlot, 2007, Sonoma County. Full-bodied, soft and round with rich, plummy fruit, earth, cedar and just enough acid to balance it all out. None of that overpowering oakiness.
2. Etude Pinot Noir, 2007, Cerneros. A very classy Pinot. Lively red cherry, mushroom and barnyard notes with a touch of vanilla. Light-bodied with dark cherry earthiness on the palate. Perfectly balanced.
3. Kenwood Artist Series, Cab Sauv, 2005, Sonoma County. My favourite of the three.  Intense black currant, cassis, mint and liquorice with slight leather. Full-bodied with green, grippy tannins, black currant and great acidity. Maybe a tad young but still very drinkable.

The Secret to happinez…

The secret to happiness, some say,  is having an appreciation for life’s simpler delights. The secret to happinez, a tiny wine bar in Saint John, New Brunswick, is much the same: delightful simplicity.

Happinez by-the-glass

This past weekend I visited happinez, not for the first time since moving back to the Maritimes. Sitting below street-level of the historical Brodie building it beckons you inside with ancient natural stone walls, low ceilings and a buzz of happy patrons. Servers make eye contact as you enter, but thankfully don’t descend on you immediately, giving you time to get settled. Even before my first glass of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir I am instantly recharged from the 4 hour car trip from Halifax.

"Come A Little Closer" bench

What’s most refreshing to me about happinez is it’s ability to take a single concept and execute it very well. Everything from the architecture, to the furnishings, to the people working there creates an atmosphere conducive to relaxing and socializing – the wines are merely a compliment. A credit to owner and creator, Peter Smit, a native of Amsterdam who’s lived in Saint John since the early 80s.

You won’t find Budweiser or Smirnoff here (however, you might find an obscure local craft beer, or a good Russian Vodka if you ask). The main focus at happinez is wine. A good selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass, tasting flight, or bottle changes monthly (higher end bottles are also available from the cellar). Plates of local artisanal cheeses from Fromagerie Au Fond de Bois and local charcuterie from La Ferme du Diamant are on hand and pair beautifully with the wines. And everything is enjoyed amidst friendly strangers either seated communally in the back, perched near the bar, or atop the highly entertaining Come A Little Closer Bench.

some happinez'ers

Somehow it all manages to be serious, without being snobby; polished without being flashy, simple without being dull. There is little point in missing this gem next time you find yourself in Saint John, New Brunswick (but do check the time, they are only open Wed – Sat).

happinez wine bar
42 Princess Street
Saint John, NB
E2L 1K2
506.634.7340
http://www.happinezwinebar.com

Super Nova

2009 Benjamin Bridge Nova 7

Benjamin Bridge, a small Nova Scotia winery in the Gaspereau River Valley, released their 2009 Nova 7 yesterday. Following the sell-out success of the 2008, I was eager to try this year’s result so off I skipped to Port of Wines to procure myself a splash.

The scene on arrival looked promising: all in attendance seemed pleased with their bubbly bounty – lots of chatting, nodding heads and rosy cheeks. Jean Benoit, the winemaker, wasn’t present but consultant Peter Gamble was on hand to answer questions and tout the wares. He described the wine in great detail, contrasted it with the last vintage, and alerted us to the upcoming 2004 Brut Reserve and Blanc de Noirs classic-champagne-method sparkling wine due to be unveiled this autumn (read more from Sean Wood on that). So, what of the Nova 7? I thoroughly enjoyed it. And at 7.5% alcohol it’s possible to enjoy larger than normal volumes and still maintain your dignity.

Blend:	NY Muscat, Perle of Csaba.
Appearance:	Pale gold, fine bubbles.
Nose:	Intensely aromatic. Lychee, orange and melon with orange blossom and honeysuckle florality.
Palate:	Lively fizz, light-to-medium bodied, slightly sweet with balancing acidity. Peach and orange on the finish.

Delicious! Looking forward to trying this with a spicy curry or maybe some Mascarpone & fresh berries… Hmm.

The Unfinished Bottle

Source: Winebarr.com

Apparently, there are people who open a bottle of wine and don’t finish it in one sitting.

I know. I didn’t believe it either.

This concerns me on many levels, but mostly because in as little as 2 hours that lively wine will start to succumb to the ravages of Oxidation. Well-meaning Oxygen will rouse the nasty Hydrogen Peroxide who will oxidize the innocent Ethanol to produce a rather ugly love child, Acetaldehyde. The result of this hapless union is loss of colour, flavour and aroma – i.e. flat wine.

Thankfully, there are measures one can take to prevent such an outcome. A plethora of Wine Preservation Systems claim to slow (or stop) Oxidation (and in the case of Sparkling wines, preserve bubbles). I recently discovered some of these methods in doing a project for my Sommelier class and thought I’d share some of the details with you.

Interestingly, Oxidation does not take long. How long exactly depends on a few factors:

• Varietal (grapes high in phenolic compounds more susceptible)
• Age (older wines collapse sooner)
• Volume (more air than wine in the bottle = faster oxidation)
• Temperature (warmer temperater = faster oxidation)
• Light (more light = faster oxidation)

Source: julianinterior.com

The quick-fix approach to addressing the last three of the above factors is recapping/re-corking the wine and sticking it in the fridge. When stored upright and tightly sealed, a bottle of wine will enjoy a few more hours of life here. Its freshness can be improved further by simply transferring the contents into a smaller bottle (e.g. 1/2 bottle or water bottle) which decreases the amount of air in contact with the wine. Purpose-built products like PlatyPreserve (flexible plastic “flasks”) are based on this principle while also allowing you to squeeze excess air out and seal the pouch with an air tight cap.

Most formal Preservation Systems, at a minimum, focus on removing excess O₂ from the bottle and preventing any further air from entering. (Sparkling preservation systems carry out the added task of preserving CO₂.) How they accomplish this, and how much it’ll cost you, literally spans the gamut – there are hundreds of options. But all can be more-or-less grouped into one of five categories.

1. Physical O₂ Barriers.
2. Vacuum pumps.
3. Pressure pumps.
4. Gas Barriers.
5. Serve & Preserve Systems.

Physical O₂ Barriers

WinePreserva (Source: designawards.com)

These are objects inserted into or over the bottle creating a physical barrier against Oxygen. The most common of these are rubber-ringed wine stoppers, used to temporarily close the bottle with a near air tight seal. Other products, like Wine Preserva, use a floating-disc device that sits on the surface of the wine inside the bottle blocking the air above (working much like floating lids on fermentation tanks). Response to this system has been very good (though some debate the 5-day freshness claim). Price is reasonable (~ $6/6 pack) and one disc lasts an entire bottle. They are biodegradable and made from recycled materials.

The consensus appears to be that these will preserve freshness for about 2 days. Great for the home and practical enough for trips.

Le Verre de Vin (Source: imvusatech.co.za)

Vacuum Pumps

These systems withdraw air out of  the bottle. The bottle is normally capped with a rubber stopper forming a near air-tight seal. A popular criticism of the manual pump is that bottles are often over-pumped removing precious aromatics from the wine along with the air.  Calibrated (automated) versions, like Le Verre de Vin were designed to address this problem by delivering an optimal pump ensuring just the right amount of air is sucked out leaving aromatics/flavour molecules intact. Vacu Vin‘s manual Wine Saver has seen ergonomic improvements over the last few years and some models, like the Concerto, give feedback (e.g. “click”) when the maximum pump is reached. Leaky stoppers, another nuisance, are also being improved.

The consensus appears to be that provided the correct amount of air has been pumped out and the seal is made air tight this method can preserve freshness for a few days – maybe more if combined with the fridge.

Pressure Pumps

Perlage (Source: wholesalebarsupplies.com)

Mainly for Sparkling wines, these systems purge the bottle head space of O₂ and re-pressurize it with C0₂. Le Verre de Vin offers a pressure pump option, and other systems like Perlage use a hand-held gauge and outer glass enclosure for protection. A major criticism of C0₂ infused systems concerns the quality of the added bubbles. A traditional-method Champagne, for example, where C0₂ is created naturally (and pumped-in carbonation is prohibited), would, some argue be polluted by “fake” bubbles. Many commercial establishments are thrilled, however, as it allows them to sell the once off-limits sparkling wine by-the-glass with little to no wastage. The majority of their customers, it would seem, don’t notice, or care about differences in carbonation purity (perhaps the ones that do care, opt for the full bottle). For the home, Perlage makes a residential model, and others like Presurvac are also home-friendly.

The consensus appears to be that  if you can a) put up with the hassle of buying CO₂ cartridges (or cylinders), b) you want bubbly to last more than a day and c) your palate is unoffended by pumped-in fizz, the treated wines are far better than their flat alternatives.

Private Preserve (Source: hemingwaysltd.com)

Gas Barriers

These systems spray or inject inert gas (typically Argon or Nitrogen) into the bottle forcing O₂ out and  ‘blanketing’ the wine’s surface with a protective shield. Spray canisters like Private Preserve or WineLife are popular, affordable options at about $10/can and are generally good for about 100 uses. Some people report a synthetic flavour in the treated wine and suggest aeration. There is also some debate over the non-inert properties of Nitrogen and its tendency to alter wine. Others complain that the system is just plain awkward to use citing difficulties with administering just the right amount of spray and getting the stopper on quickly enough (without losing the straw in the bottle).

The consensus appears to be that if a the spray is administered correctly and bottle is swiftly re-capped this can preserve freshness for up to a week. Aeration may be required depending on gas-related sensitivities.

Enomatic (Source: enomatic.com)

Serve & Preserve Systems

These systems are normally aimed at the commercial market with serious by-the-glass or try-before-you-buy programs. These are typically computerised units that preserve wine by displacing O₂ with neutral gas and storing it at controlled temperatures. They offer push-button or manual-tap pouring without exposing the wine to air. Simplified Home versions like EuroCave’s SoWine (which requires removing the bottle for pouring) go for about $300, but commercial grade systems like N2Vin, By The Glass or Enomatic can run anywhere from $2,000 to $20,000 (depending on bells & whistles). WineKeeper was long the main player in this space, but is gradually being superseded by more sophisticated products that offer features like customised temperature zones, card activation and administrative software. For preserving wine over longer periods these systems perform well, and the technology is constantly improving. Because the bottle is not handled, lost costs associated with spillage and over-pouring are avoided too. Cons tend to be associated with the initial price tag and ongoing costs of regular professional maintenance. Other people lament the loss of the wine-pouring ritual and find the “vending machine” approach to wine vulgar. But despite clinical and cost drawbacks many establishments are reporting swift ROIs. The systems have a strong visual impact and let customers know the establishment is serious about its wine and is handling it properly.

The consensus appears to be:  do your research. While the systems are unmatched in their ability to preserve wines over long periods, it’s a vast market. Features and functionality vary widely as does quality of workmanship and design.

She had the necklace in a little box.

A Snappy Spanish Sampling at POW

Flamenco Dancer

The Port of Wines in Halifax has begun to host free, weekly in-store wine tastings. Led by agents whose wines adorn the shelves there (or soon will), the wines typically adhere to a theme with  normally at least 5 to try, and occasionally nibbles are provided (sorry, I cringe at the word nibble, but for the sake of clarity I had to use it). The agents are pretty knowledgable, too, providing a nice forum to ask questions. Given all this, I’m always surprised at the low turnout. But I, the resident Village Wino, somehow find time to show up to most… I do it all for you, dear Readers (all 3 of you).

This week’s tasting included 5 Spanish wines from Celtic Cellars:

1. 2006 Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja Blanco
   
2. 2005 Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja
   
3. 2005 Taurus Crianza Toro
   
4. 2006 Resalte Vendimia Seleccionada
5. 2005 Resalte Crianza

Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja (White)

2006 Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja Blanco. Having not had much White Rioja in my time (and probably even less of the good stuff) I was interested to try this. 100% Viura, a grape that seems to have suffered a similar fate to Italy’s Trebbiano – high yielding, once vinified with red varieties for acidity, often associated with poor quality wines, etc. With several months in French Oak (seems to me, the winemaker is French, too) there was some vanilla on those along with spice and tropical fruit (pineapple and citrus). Palate was rich, creamy and mouth-coating with more of the spice and tropical fruit. Mild acidity with a medium-long, dry finish. I’d normally prefer more acid, but I could see how this might be less of a concern when paired with the right food, e.g. Spanish Tapas – seafood, heavy on the garlic!

Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja Tinto

2005 Cosme Palacio Cosecha Rioja. This one was a little more familiar. 100% Tempranillo. The colour was a youthful, bright, ruby red. Dark, ripe blackberry fruit with good earthy, oak notes mixed in. Light-Medium structure, barely any tannins with pronounced fruit and good acidity, but at the same time slightly bitter. It finished quickly, with flavours dropping off pretty suddenly.

2005 Taurus Crianza Toro. This is a 100% Tinta de Toro (aka Tempranillo) from the Castilla y León region. Both inside and out this wine struck me as being one of those consumer “brand” wines… You know: The winery figures out the tastes and preferences of their biggest buying group and then designs a wine to suit them? These wines are priced nicely but typically not very interesting (which is probably by design so as to appeal to everyone and offend no one). OK, before I get too opinionated here I’ll just share my notes and you can make up your own mind. Moderate notes of ripe, red berries with touch of toasted spicyness. Palate was simple, fruity, woody with mild tannin and moderate acidity. Finished quickly. To me, it was fine, I could drink it, but it wasn’t  remarkable.

Taurus Crianza

Resalte. Both the Vendimia Seleccionada & the Crianza had very similar flavour profiles and weight, but the Crianza was notably smoother. Both 100% Tempranillo from the Ribera del Duero DO and oak-aged (the VS 3 mos, the Crianza 15). Both are robust, very fruity and fresh but the Vendimia Seleccionada had additional notes of green pepper both on the nose and on the palate and the tannins were grippier. The Crianza was better integrated and softer overall – likely due to its slightly older vintage and its longer time in Oak. I preferred the Crianza by far and will keep this Bodega in mind for my next hefty, Spanish-inpsired meal.

Resalte Vendimia Seleccionada

Vendimia Seleccionada

A Recreational Tasting in Londontown

Visiting some friends in London last week, I fully embraced Britain’s drink-culture and spent most of the time, well, drinking. Mostly wine. Believe it or not, the occasional note was taken and a conscious effort made to think about what I was drinking. So really, it was less indulgence and more homework – an extended recreational tasting, if you will.

At the top of the heap, was a natural Malbec from Cahors, and at the bottom a Chilean Carmenère. Full details are below… Warning: long post. Skim away!

Chateau Kefraya

First stop was Chateau Kefraya at Le Mignon in Camden Town, a Lebanese wine I’ve had often. It seems to suffer from high bottle variation, but when it’s right it’s a medium-bodied, spicy, fruity wine that goes perfectly with Lebanese food. We enjoyed this bottle with an assortment of vegetarian Mezza consisting of traditional treats like Mujadara, Fattoush, Foul Muddamas, Muhamara to name a few. The smoky, spicy character of both the food and wine blend well, with neither overpowering the other. Another wine we tried was the Chateau Ksara Clos Alphonse with a flavour profile very similar to the Kefraya but with a slightly lighter structure. Heavier, meat dishes might pair better with the Le Fleuron, a new wine to Le Mignon, which has more weight and structure than the Kefraya/Ksara, but still has the spice and fruit that lends itself so well to the menu.

Marsala Riserva Superiore

Next stop was the wonderful Vinoteca in Smithfield for a Food & Drink Blogger’s Dinner organised by the illustrious Niamh Shields from Eat Like A Girl. Victoria Curatolo of Sicilian Winery Villa Tonino led the dinner consisting of beauties like Olive Oil Poached Gunard, Char-Grilled Old Spot Pork-Belly and Slow-Cooked Veal Shoulder. So busy was I devouring and chatting that I failed to note each of the wines, but the Marsala Riserva Superiore served at the end of dinner was hard to ignore (especially the next day when it greeted me again in the form of a massive headache).  My barely legible notes indicate a deep amber colour with an intense spirity & fruity nose with nut, caramel, honeyed/dried fruit flavours. I might have preferred a bit more sweetness, but as it was, a fantastic finish to a wonderful meal.

Le Combal Cahors

Moving on to South Western France – a personal favourite where the styles are refreshingly varied, interesting and experimental – I was pleased to see such a healthy selection at Terroirs. Terroirs focuses on natural wine and food so it’s a fantastic spot to discover new and obscure styles. My dining companions were feasting on a mixture of Steak Tartare and Clams & Chorizo, so I opted for a bottle of rustic Le Combal Cahors to split between us. Despite it being served slightly too cool, we were all very happy with this rich, inky coloured Malbec. Almost middle-aged Bordeaux-like with leather, smoke, ripe/dark fruit and subdued tannins. I’d have this again, for sure.

Saint Etalon

Continuing in the France vein, a bottle of Saint Etalon Sauvignon Blanc was shared over a meal of seafood and veggie dishes at Market, a relatively new modern British restaurant in Camden Town. A bottle of South African (Western Cape) Sauvignon Blanc – Springfield Estate’s Life From A Stone was also had.  The Saint Etalon went largely unremarked upon… quietly blending into the background, not offending or impressing anyone much. The Life From a Stone caused a bit of a stir between our Frenchman friend and the owner of the restaurant. The latter loving the new world, stoney, mineral style of LFAS and the former preferring the understated lemon, pear herbiness of the SE. With regards to this particular debate, I sided with the owner. A rather light, sweet, peach-infused Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet from Bordeaux (Gironde) finished dinner along with a cheese plate and homemade oatcakes. I liked the Loupiac a lot – perhaps could have had a bit more “bite” but overall, delicious.

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône

A trip to London would not be complete without a lazy, slightly hungover afternoon in the pub. I met my two cohorts on one such Saturday at the Lord Stanley in Camden Square. Our focus being primarily food and gossip we went with a straightforward Organic, Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône and a Libertad Malbec Shiraz from Argentina. We ordered rich and flavourful dishes of Quail, Fried Polenta and Sausages. The CdR had lots of lush red fruit notes – strawberry and cherry – with a reassuring touch of earth and leather which all came through on the palate with a smooth texture and medium-bodied structure. Happily, the Malbec Shiraz wasn’t as “shouty” as expected. The same ripe red fruit as the Côtes du Rhône but instead of earthiness, hints of vanilla and oak. As expected, it was fuller bodied on the palate with more fruit-forwardness and spice.

Forest Hill Riesling

I’ve found few better places for Indian vetegarian/seafood than Rasa Samudra on Charlotte Street, specialising in Keralan food. On this occasion, my companion and I ordered King Fish and Talapia for mains with a traditional starter of Keralan pompodoms & chutneys to start. For wine, we opted for the Western Australian Forest Hill Riesling with the notion that Rieslings and curries are often good matches. However, with the dishes not being typical, western-inspired curries and the Riesling not being a typical, slightly-sweet white, the match failed somewhat. The food was spicy and savoury and the wine was dry and tart. Some residual sugar in either the wine or the dish would have balanced this match better I think. Individually the food and wine were wonderful.

Viña von Siebenthal Carmenère

The final attack on my liver involved a trip to Artisan & Vine in Battersea. I’d been wanting to try A&V for some time so a friend and I agreed to shed habit and venture south of the river. First impression was that it was a lovely space – an inviting layout and pretty decor. Feeling a bit worse for wear (physically & financially) we were looking for something lighter-bodied and good value. The options weren’t as numerous as I’d hoped in either category. With surprisingly little help from the woman behind the counter we apprehensively settled on a bottled of  Viña von Siebenthal Carmenère Riserva from Chile. On first whiff I thought I detected a touch of cork taint/TCA – but I couldn’t be sure. The nose was jammy but not as expressive as I was expecting and there was a little of the dreaded “wet cardboard”. Annoyingly, we drank it anyway. I literally forced this wine down and did not enjoy a drop of it. To me it was unbalanced, lacking in acid and slightly syrupy – and again, that slight mildew component. I know what you’re thinking. “Why didn’t you send it back?” The answer is, I don’t know. I was tired. Broken. Beaten down by the aforementioned drinking marathon, maybe. Whatever the reason, I shan’t be gorging  – err, I mean studying – like this again for a while

mujadara

The Art of the Spit

Wine Tasting

There is no real way around it – becoming a Sommelier and learning about wine requires tasting a lot of wine… which, as it turns out, is actually not as glamourous as it sounds. Per class, it’s not uncommon to taste upwards of 10 wines, with each pour being roughly 3 oz. This may not sound like much, but having swallowed the full flight once or twice I am always surprised to learn how quickly inebriation sets in. By about  wine #6 you stop smelling or tasting much in your glass, and by the end of it – you’re likely pretty drunk. (Actually, worse than drunk. Out-of-context drunk. Like, public-transportation drunk, or dinner-at-your-grandparents’ drunk.) There you are: pen in hand, an alarming sense of confusion fused with shame blurs your thoughts… there’s a sudden desire text your ex… Except you’re at a tasting, and you’re supposed to be taking notes about the wine. Tsk. You just try writing something down that makes sense in this state. Not possible.

So, to avoid disaster you must spit. And like everything else worth doing, there is a way to do it properly. I have not yet perfected “the art of the spit” – which is why I’ve not posted a video – but here are the steps as I’ve learned them:

1. Take a gulp of wine as you normally would, leaving some extra space in your mouth.
2. Make an “o”shape with your mouth (as if about to whistle) and take some air into your mouth.
3. Do the tasting/swishing thing.
4. Position the spittoon about 5-6” away from your face.
5. Make the “o” shape again with your mouth, but instead of taking air in, push the air out – along with 3/4 of the wine – in a steady, narrow stream into the spittoon.
6. Swallow the remaining wine.

The idea is to form a neat, quick, trajectory into the bucket while minimizing splash and dribble. Do not place your face on, or near the bucket. (This position not only looks bad, but puts you in danger of getting either splash-back or germies.)

This takes a huge amount of practice, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t master it straight away. (I am still working on it, and imagine I will be for some time.)

Happy spitting!

A Tiny Taste of Canada

Having spent the bulk of my wine-formative years outside of Canada I’m not as familiar with Canadian wines as I’d like. Nova Scotia is one of the 4 wine-growing provinces of Canada and by living here I’ve acquired some knowledge of wines produced locally, but little of the wines produced in the rest of the country.

For a variety of reasons (a topic for another post) quality wines from Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia are difficult to find in Nova Scotia.  I became acutely aware of this predicament after perusing the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards in Wine Access magazine. Of the (roughly) 1,000 wines reviewed, most were from Ontario and British Columbia and many were not available for purchase east of Quebec!

After sufficient sulking, I noted a few of the recurring award-winners and resolved to keep an eye out. Before too long I spied a couple of those wineries listed on a recent NSLC Port of Wines tasting – notably, the Okanogan Valley’s Sandhill (2009 Winery of the Year), and Niagra’s Thirty Bench. Off I marched to give them a try.

Sandhill
(Okanogan Valley, British Columbia)

2006 Sandhill Merlot

2006 Sandhill Pinot Blanc

The Merlot had notes of dark fruit (plumb), spice, vanilla, wood. Palate was full and round, but fruit and acid both fairly muted with bitter tannin.

The barrell fermented & aged Pinot Blanc was my favourite. Nicely integrated yeasty/buttery/tropical fruit (peach) nose. Medium-bodied with more peach, toasted nuts, and a lovely creamyness that ends with great acidity. Yum!

Thirty Bench
(Niagra, Ontario)

2007 Thirty Bench "Small Lot" Riesling (Triangle Vineyard)

2007 Thirty Bench Red

The Riesling had a lovely yellow, golden colour. The nose was classic petrol, citrus and mineral. In the mouth, a light-medium structure, with sour green apple and a slight brineyness.  I was expecting a little more acidity here, but otherwise I liked it.

The Red was my second favourite of the afternoon. A blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc & Merlot.  Lots of green pepper and a little cassis and spiciness on the nose. Full-bodied and silky with nicely integrated spice, fruit and acid on the palate. Still maybe a little green and pretty tannic, but I still liked!